Hey guys! So, you're diving into the grim and grimy world of the Death Guard, huh? Awesome choice! But let's be real, nailing that perfect green for Nurgle's chosen can be trickier than navigating a Plague Marine's digestive system. Don't worry, though, you're not alone. Many hobbyists, myself included, have struggled to achieve that iconic, sickly, and utterly disgusting green that screams Death Guard. You're probably asking yourself questions like, "Why does my green look too bright?" or "How do I get that proper, corroded look?" or even "What paints should I even use?" Fear not, because we're about to dive deep into the swampy, Nurgle-infested waters of Death Guard green, and by the end, you'll be painting Plague Marines that would make Mortarion proud. We will cover everything from base coating to highlighting to weathering, so buckle up, grab your brushes, and let's get started on this wonderfully disgusting journey.
Understanding the Death Guard Aesthetic
Before we even think about picking up a brush, let's take a moment to understand what we're trying to achieve. The Death Guard aren't just any Space Marine chapter; they are the favored sons of Nurgle, the Chaos God of disease, decay, and resilience. This translates into a very specific aesthetic: think sickly green armor, corroded metal, oozing sores, and a general sense of 'ewww'. The key to painting convincing Death Guard lies in capturing this feeling of decay and resilience. It's not just about slapping on some green paint; it's about creating a miniature that tells a story of slow, agonizing transformation and unwavering devotion to the Plague God. This means your color choices, your weathering techniques, and your overall approach need to reflect this. Think about the colors of decay in the natural world – the browns, yellows, and greens of rotting vegetation, the rust and corrosion on neglected metal. These are the colors we want to incorporate into our Death Guard color scheme. The goal isn't to make them look shiny and new; it's to make them look like they've been wading through a cesspool of plagues for centuries, and, frankly, enjoying it. So, keep this imagery in mind as we move forward, and let's start exploring the specific paints and techniques you can use to bring this vision to life. Remember, the Death Guard are all about the details, so the more you can capture that feeling of decay and resilience, the more impressive your miniatures will look on the tabletop. It's about creating a miniature that tells a story of slow, agonizing transformation and unwavering devotion to the Plague God.
Choosing the Right Green: A Palette of Pestilence
Okay, so you want that perfect Death Guard green, right? But here's the thing: there's no one perfect green. It's more like a spectrum of sickly, wonderful greens. The colors you choose will depend on the specific look you're going for, but there are a few go-to options that are incredibly popular in the community and provide a solid starting point. Let's break down some of the most commonly used greens and how to use them:
- Citadel's Death Guard Green: This is practically the official color of the Death Guard, and for good reason. It's a muted, slightly desaturated green that's perfect for capturing that corroded, aged look. It provides a great base coat and foundation for your entire color scheme. Many hobbyists begin and end with this color, but it can be easily enhanced by other colors. The consistency of this paint is amazing, and it applies very smoothly, so you shouldn't have any issues with brush strokes or pooling in unwanted areas. This paint option is one of the best choices for beginners looking to paint their first Death Guard models.
- Vallejo Model Color: Sick Green: This is a slightly brighter, more vibrant green than Death Guard Green, which makes it excellent for highlights or for adding a bit more life (or unlife?) to your models. It will add some variance to your army if you find the original Death Guard Green to be too bland. Many modelers will use this as a final highlight on their models or mix it into other paints to add some brightness to their color schemes. This vibrant green adds a lot of depth and will help make your models pop on the table.
- Army Painter: Army Green: This is another solid base coat option, similar in tone to Death Guard Green but perhaps slightly more olive. It's a great choice if you prefer the Army Painter range or are looking for a slightly different hue. This paint has a thicker consistency, so it may require some thinning before applying it to your models. It will provide a more matte finish than the other paints mentioned so far, which can be advantageous when applying washes or weathering effects. This color can be used as a base coat, highlight, or for mixing with other paints, making it an extremely versatile option for any painter.
- Experimenting with Mixes: Don't be afraid to mix your own greens! A mix of a dark green (like a dark olive or even a black-green) with a lighter, brighter green can create some really interesting effects. Try adding a touch of yellow or even a tiny bit of brown to your green mix to get that truly Nurgle-y look. Get creative and test out new colors, that is the fun of the hobby! Some painters recommend using a wet palette when mixing paints to ensure they stay wet and workable for longer periods, reducing the chances of the paint drying out on you while you're trying to create that perfect mix.
Pro-Tip: When choosing your greens, consider the other colors you'll be using in your scheme. Are you going for a very dark, grimy look? Or something a bit brighter and more vibrant? Your choice of green will influence the overall feel of your army.
Base Coating: The Foundation of Filth
Okay, you've got your perfect green (or greens!) picked out. Now it's time to lay down the foundation. Base coating is crucial because it provides a consistent surface for your subsequent layers of paint. A good base coat will make your colors pop and help you achieve a smoother, more even finish. Here’s a rundown of the best methods for base coating your Death Guard:
Priming: Your First Line of Defense
Before you even touch your green paint, you need to prime your models. Primer is a special type of paint that adheres strongly to the plastic or resin, providing a surface for your base coat to grip onto. Without primer, your paint will likely chip and scratch easily, and all your hard work will go to waste. So, don't skip this step! The best primers for Death Guard are usually those that give you a dark, somewhat muted base to work from. This helps to achieve that grim, decaying look that's so characteristic of Nurgle's legions. Here are some popular primer choices:
- Chaos Black: A classic choice for a reason. Black primer provides a dark, shadowy base that's perfect for darker color schemes. It can make your greens look richer and more muted, which is ideal for Death Guard. Black primer can also be easily covered by other colors, allowing for flexibility in your color schemes. It's a versatile option that works well with a wide range of painting styles.
- Grey Seer: If you're planning on using brighter greens or want a slightly less intense look, Grey Seer is a fantastic option. It's a light grey that will allow your colors to shine through more, making them appear more vibrant. This is a great choice if you want your Death Guard to have a slightly less grim and dark appearance. It also works well as a base for metallic paints, providing a smooth surface for them to adhere to.
- Army Painter: Army Green Primer: This is a convenient option that gives you both a primer and a base coat in one go. It's a good match for many Death Guard greens, saving you a step in the process. It will create a matte finish, which is ideal for applying washes and weathering effects later on. This is a great time-saving option for painters who want to get to the fun parts of the painting process quickly.
How to Prime:
- Spray Can: Shake the can thoroughly for at least two minutes. Hold the can about 8-12 inches away from your model and apply in short, even bursts. Avoid spraying too much in one spot, as this can lead to a thick, uneven finish. Remember, multiple thin coats are better than one thick coat.
- Airbrush: If you have an airbrush, you can apply primer even more smoothly and evenly. Thin your primer according to the manufacturer's instructions and spray in light coats, building up the coverage gradually.
Applying the Base Coat: Green is Good (and Gross)
Once your primer is dry, it's time to apply your base coat of green. This is where you'll really start to see your Death Guard take shape. Whether you are using a brush or an airbrush, the technique is the same: apply thin, even coats of paint, allowing each coat to dry fully before applying the next. This will prevent the paint from clumping or obscuring details on the model. Using a wet palette can help keep your paints from drying out as well.
- Brush: Use a good quality brush that holds its shape well. Apply the paint in smooth, even strokes, working your way around the model. Don't overload your brush with paint, as this can lead to brushstrokes and uneven coverage. Several thin coats will give you a much better result than one thick coat.
- Airbrush: If you're using an airbrush, thin your paint according to the manufacturer's instructions. Spray in light coats, overlapping each pass slightly. Keep your airbrush moving to avoid pooling of paint.
Pro-Tip: Don't worry about getting a perfect base coat. The Death Guard are meant to look grimy and weathered, so a little bit of unevenness can actually add to the effect. The most important thing is to get a solid, even layer of color across the entire model.
Layering and Highlighting: Bringing Out the Rot
With your base coat down, it's time to add depth and dimension to your Death Guard. This is where layering and highlighting come in. Layering involves applying progressively lighter shades of green over your base coat, focusing on the raised areas of the model. Highlighting, on the other hand, is about picking out the very edges and corners with the lightest colors to create a sense of light and shadow. These techniques will make your models look more three-dimensional and help to bring out the details. The key here is subtlety – you're not trying to create a stark contrast, but rather a gradual transition between shades.
Layering Techniques: Building Up the Green
Layering is all about building up color gradually. Start by applying a slightly lighter shade of green than your base coat to the larger, raised areas of the model, such as the shoulder pads, chest plate, and helmet. Leave the recesses and shadowed areas in the base coat color. This will create a natural sense of depth. You can use a glaze medium to thin your paints for smoother transitions, allowing the layers to blend seamlessly. A wet palette is also helpful for maintaining the consistency of your paints and preventing them from drying out too quickly. Repeat this process with progressively lighter shades of green, focusing on smaller and smaller areas each time. The goal is to create a subtle gradient of color that highlights the shape of the model. Remember, thin coats are essential for layering, as they allow the colors to build up gradually without obscuring the details.
Highlighting: Edges and Corners
Once you've layered your greens, it's time to add highlights. This is where you'll pick out the edges and corners of the model with the lightest colors. Use a fine detail brush and apply the paint sparingly, focusing on the areas where light would naturally catch, such as the edges of armor plates, the corners of backpacks, and the tips of weapons. A popular technique for highlighting is edge highlighting, which involves running your brush along the edges of the armor to create a sharp, defined line of color. You can also use a technique called point highlighting, which involves applying small dots of paint to the corners and raised points of the model. For Death Guard, consider using a slightly off-white or bone color for your highlights, as this will help to emphasize the decaying, diseased nature of their armor. This will also create a subtle contrast with the green, adding visual interest to the model. Remember, the goal is to create the illusion of light reflecting off the surface of the armor, so focus on the areas that would naturally catch the light.
Pro-Tip: Don't be afraid to experiment with different highlighting techniques. You can try drybrushing (applying a small amount of paint to a dry brush and then brushing it lightly over the model) for a more textured look, or you can use a stippling technique (applying paint with a dabbing motion) for a more subtle highlight. The key is to find what works best for you and your style of painting.
Weathering: Embracing the Grime
The Death Guard are all about decay and grime, so weathering is absolutely essential. This is where you'll add the rust, corrosion, and general filth that makes them look like they've been wading through a swamp of plague for centuries. Weathering is what truly brings your Death Guard models to life, and there are many different techniques you can use to achieve this grimy look. From washes to dry brushing to specialized weathering products, we'll explore the best methods for adding that authentic Death Guard feel to your miniatures. Remember, the goal is to make your models look battle-worn and disease-ridden, so don't be afraid to get messy!
Washes: The Magic of Grime
Washes are thinned-down paints that flow into the recesses of your model, adding depth and shadow. They're a fantastic tool for weathering because they can quickly add grime and definition to your models. For Death Guard, brown, black, and green washes are your best friends. These washes will settle into the crevices and details of your models, creating the illusion of dirt, rust, and decay. Applying washes is a simple yet effective way to add depth and dimension to your miniatures. There are many different washes available, each with its own unique properties and effects.
- Nuln Oil (Black Wash): This is a classic wash that adds a general sense of grime and darkness. Apply it liberally to the recesses of your model. This is an essential tool for any painter looking to add depth and shadow to their miniatures. Nuln Oil is particularly effective for creating the look of dirt and grime in crevices and recesses.
- Agrax Earthshade (Brown Wash): Perfect for creating a rusty, earthy look. Use it to add a sense of age and corrosion to your metals and armor. Agrax Earthshade is a versatile wash that can be used on a variety of surfaces to create a weathered and aged appearance. It's especially effective for adding a touch of realism to your models.
- Biel-Tan Green (Green Wash): This wash will add a greenish tint to your model, enhancing the sickly, Nurgle-y look. Apply it selectively to areas where you want to emphasize the decay and disease. Biel-Tan Green is a great choice for adding a subtle touch of green to your miniatures, creating a more organic and natural look.
How to Apply Washes:
Apply the wash liberally to the areas you want to weather. Let it flow into the recesses and crevices. You can use a clean brush to remove any excess wash from flat surfaces if you want to avoid a too-dark look. The key to using washes effectively is to allow them to flow naturally into the recesses, creating a sense of depth and shadow. Once the wash is dry, you can use a clean brush to wick away any excess paint from flat surfaces, ensuring that the wash only darkens the recessed areas. This will help to define the details of your model and create a more realistic appearance.
Drybrushing: Dust and Decay
Drybrushing is a technique where you apply a small amount of paint to a dry brush, then wipe most of it off on a paper towel before lightly brushing it over your model. This technique is great for highlighting textures and adding a dusty, worn look. Drybrushing is an excellent way to create the illusion of wear and tear on your miniatures, adding character and realism to your models. The key to successful drybrushing is to use a very small amount of paint and to apply it lightly and evenly.
For Death Guard, try drybrushing with a light brown or bone color to simulate dust and decay. Focus on the raised areas of the model, such as the edges of armor plates and the texture of the corroded metal. This will highlight the texture of your models and give them a battle-worn appearance. Drybrushing can be used to create a variety of effects, from subtle highlights to heavy weathering.
Special Effects: Rust, Corrosion, and More
There are also a variety of specialized weathering products available, such as rust pigments, corrosion effects, and even simulated blood and gore. These products can add an extra layer of realism to your Death Guard models. Using weathering products is a great way to take your Death Guard models to the next level, adding unique details and realistic effects to your miniatures. These products can range from rust and corrosion effects to simulated blood and gore, allowing you to create a variety of different looks and styles.
- Rust Pigments: These are powdered pigments that you can apply to your model to create the look of rust. Apply them with a brush or sponge, and then fix them in place with a pigment fixer or varnish. Rust pigments are a great way to add a realistic rusty appearance to metal surfaces on your models. These pigments come in a variety of shades and can be mixed and matched to create custom rust effects.
- Corrosion Effects: These are paints or pastes that create a pitted, corroded texture on your model. Apply them to metal areas to simulate the effects of rust and decay. Corrosion effects are perfect for adding a sense of age and wear to your metal surfaces. These products can be applied with a brush or sponge and can be layered to create different levels of corrosion.
Pro-Tip: When using weathering products, remember that less is often more. It's easy to overdo it and make your models look too messy. Start with a small amount and build up the effect gradually. It's always better to add more weathering later than to try to remove it once it's applied.
Final Thoughts: Embrace the Rot!
Painting Death Guard is a journey into the grotesque and the glorious. It's about embracing the decay, the grime, and the sheer awfulness of Nurgle's chosen. By mastering the techniques we've discussed – from choosing the right greens to layering, highlighting, and weathering – you'll be well on your way to creating a Death Guard army that's both terrifying and beautiful. Remember, the key is to have fun and experiment. Don't be afraid to try new things and develop your own style. The most important thing is to create models that you're proud of. So, grab your brushes, embrace the rot, and get painting!
What are your favorite Death Guard painting techniques? Share them in the comments below!